Myth: A wax made of 100-percent carnauba is superior to those using lesser amounts.Reality: Carnauba wax has been a favorite among car enthusiasts for years, but don't believe that any wax is made of 100-percent carnauba. As the hardest natural wax known, carnauba is much too hard to apply directly to automotive paint. It comes in bricks that must be melted and added to a company's formulation. If a paint protectant advertises "pure carnauba," it means the part of the formula that is carnauba is pure, not that it's 100-percent carnauba. According to Pennington, today's synthetic polymer technology actually provides better protection than carnauba.
Myth: Avoid a silicone-based wax. If used, the vehicle can't be repainted. Reality: It's true that silicones are a bane of the auto painter. For instance, if particles of silicone are on the sheetmetal when it's painted, they can keep the paint from adhering to the surface, causing defects known as fisheye. That's why some professional cleaners and polishes intended for shop use are formulated without silicone. However, once paint is on the car, silicone is no longer an issue. In fact, virtually every wax on the market uses some kind of silicone in its formula because it enhances the product's ease of application, gloss, and durability. If repainting is necessary, a body shop can easily take off the wax as part of its normal preparation.
Myth: You can assume that a finish that looks glossy is in good shape. Reality: There are different degrees of glossiness, and a paint can dull so gradually you may not realize it's happening. For this reason, don't rely just on reflectivity to judge your paint's condition. Use your sense of touch, as well. Place your clean, dry hand flat against the paint and slowly rub it along the surface. Feel with both palm and fingertips. A well-maintained finish should feel smooth as glass. Any roughness could be due to oxidation, tree sap mist, or adhered grit, all of which degrade a paint's gloss to some degree.
Myth: Oxidation is a major problem for factory paint. Reality: Until a few years ago, this was definitely the case. Today, however, oxidation is no longer the concern it used to be. Ultraviolet radiation from the sun was once a finish's worst enemy, gradually causing the paint to deteriorate into a white, chalky dullness. In the last five to 10 years, new paint technology has come onto the scene that's much more resistant to UV, allowing new-car paint to hold up many years longer. With older cars, though, oxidation is still a problem an owner should be concerned with.
Myth: Clear-coat finishes don't require waxing. Reality: Even though today's clear-coat finishes are much more resistant to UV radiation, they're still as susceptible to other environmental contamination. A clear coat is still just another layer of paint, and is subject to the same deterioration as paint with pigment. Therefore, periodic waxing is still recommended for maximum protection against the elements. Always use a non-abrasive formula labeled safe for clear coats. "The problem today is the stuff that lands on paint," says Pennington. Contaminants ranging from bird droppings and bugs to tree sap mist, industrial fallout, and airborne pollutants can adhere to the paint and gradually cause dulling and roughness. If left unattended, it can chemically etch into the paint, causing permanent scars. A quality wax can help keep the contaminants from bonding, but the best strategy is to wash them off before they can adhere.
Myth: With modern "easy-care" formulas, paint scratches can be easily removed by hand. Reality: Scratches can be temporarily filled with some types of products, but they'll likely reappear after your first wash. The only sure way to eliminate scratches is to use an abrasive product-such as a cleaner-that removes enough of the surrounding paint to physically make the scratch appear less deep. Pennington notes, though, there's a wide range of scratches. Even with a cleaner, only the very lightest scratches can be removed by hand. As scratches deepen, they require more advanced methods, progressing in order from an orbital buffer, a dual-action polisher, a rotary polisher, and finally wet sanding. Scratches that go completely through a paint layer cannot be eliminated without repainting.
Myth: Machine buffing is dangerous for paint. Reality: As mentioned above, there are different types of machines designed for buffing and polishing, and all are safe when matched with the right skill level. An orbital buffer, is the least aggressive type and can be easily used by the average do-it-yourselfer. A dual-action polisher is slightly more aggressive and therefore requires more care and skill to use safely. Finally, a professional-type rotary polisher can remove paint relatively quickly, making it a good choice for fixing damaged paint. This same trait, however, also makes it easier to burn through a paint layer unless used by an experienced person.
Myth: Swirl marks or spiderwebbing are found mostly in old or abused paint. Reality: Even brand-new paint can quickly show spiderwebbing-very light scratches, often in a circular pattern, most easily seen in the reflection of a light. A number of products are designed to remove swirl marks, but Pennington emphasizes the real key is to find out what's causing them. Spiderwebbing is commonly caused by unseen dirt on a towel, sponge, or chamois, and can happen either at a carwash center (even those that handwash) or in your own driveway, while you're washing or drying your car. Even cheap towels can cause these marks. "Use a good quality terry towel with a thick nap," says Pennington, "and always use good car-care techniques."
Myth: A good paint protectant can even protect against fire. Reality: Don't be misled by sleight-of-hand. You may have seen a car wax salesman demonstrate the durability of his product by lighting a flame on the surface of a car and then pointing out that his product's "superior protection" kept the paint from being damaged at all. What he sprays on the paint and ignites is lighter fluid, which burns extremely easily and quickly. In fact, the flame doesn't actually touch the paint surface because it's feeding off rising fumes. Usually, the paint gets no warmer than it would on a hot summer day, and you can place your hand on the spot immediately after the flame goes out and not be burned. Even paint with no protection at all will survive this test just fine.
New & Notable.
If today's computer-controlled engines make you feel powerless to diagnose and repair your car's driveability problems, the new EZ-Link Scanner could be just what you're looking for. Fully compatible with all OBD-II vehicles, this engine diagnostic scanner can help you pinpoint problems with any '96 or later model, domestic or import. The EZ-Link simply plugs into the car's standard diagnostics link to retrieve trouble codes (displayed in plain English) and other data from the engine computer, monitor sensor readings, perform oxygen sensor tests, and reset an engine warning light. Suggested retail price: $299.99. An EZ-Link Pro Pack ($449.99; under $400 street price) can also be used on '82-'95 GM models and '83-'95 Ford and Chrysler vehicles, and includes OBD-I and -II cables, user manual, and carrying case. With optional PC-Link ($89.99), the EZ-Link can even be upgraded over the Internet. AutoXray, 800/595-9729; www.autoxray.com.
Going Stealth, With Escort's SR1.
While we're used to seeing radar detectors prominently mounted on a car's windshield, there are several advantages to having a permanently mounted hidden detector system in your vehicle. First, if you often use a detector in the same car, it eliminates the necessity of having to set up the dashtop unit every time you drive, as well as the theft concerns if you leave it mounted on the glass while you're out of the vehicle. Secondly, it allows you to maintain full detection in a fully stealth mode, without the telltale unit on the windshield or wire hanging down from the visor. It provides more reliable rear laser protection, without the worry of a head or headrest blocking the signal from reaching the detector. Plus, it allows you to put the detector display in a more convenient and accessible location that's more in line with your normal line of sight. These are all benefits of Escort's new Passport SR1. Distributed through new car dealers and high-end car audio specialists, and recommended for professional installation, the SR1 consists of a front radar/laser receiver mounted in the grille or at the front bumper, a rear laser sensor mounted to the license plate holder or other convenient location to ensure a clear view out the back, and a thin, 4-inch-long remote display/control unit. This can be located in a number of accessible spots, and can be mounted either horizontally or vertically, with the readout programmable for either position. In addition, a light sensor in the display module continually monitors the ambient light in the car and automatically adjusts the brightness of the display to match that in the cabin. Alternately, the display can be set in one of four fixed brightness levels. The digital display will indicate from which direction laser is being detected, either from the front or rear. Plus, the system will warn you of a problem with the wiring to either the front receiver or rear laser sensor. Like its Passport 7500 dashtop kin, the SR1 includes such sophisticated features as Escort's ExpertMeter (shows up to eight radar sources at once), AutoSensitivity mode (lets an internal computer analyze incoming signals and adjust the sensitivity circuits to minimize false alarms), and 10 user-selectable options for personalization. The suggested retail price for the SR1 is $999.95, including installation. Escort, 800/433-3487; www.escortradar.com. Synthetic motor oils are the happening thing these days, and both Mobil and Pennzoil are trying to gain the competitive edge by getting creative with their formulas. The new Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic, for instance, marks only the second time in the 25-year history of the product that it's been reformulated. According to the company, Tri-Synthetic combines three advanced polymers with an innovative anti-wear additive package that provides improved wear protection and lower phosphorous levels, as well as improved sludge protection and reduced piston deposits for a cleaner-running engine. Meanwhile, Pennzoil's new synthetic oil is getting help from above in the form of Pennzane X2000. This is a synthesized hydrocarbon fluid developed by Pennzoil for the space program and used by NASA since 1989. One of the major advantages of Pennzane is its ability to operate in the extreme temperatures of space, properties just as welcome in a modern motor oil. Expect both of these premium formulas to run $4 or more per quart.
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